What wire gauge do I need for 120V outlets from an inverter in a van?

For 15A circuits (standard household outlets): 14 AWG minimum. For 20A circuits: 12 AWG minimum. These are NEC minimums — for runs over 25 feet, consider going one gauge heavier to reduce voltage drop. Use 3-conductor cable (hot/neutral/ground) rated for 90°C, such as Romex 14-2 or 12-2 with ground.

Do I need a GFCI outlet in a van inverter system?

Yes. NEC requires GFCI protection for outlets in wet or damp locations, and in vehicles GFCI is best practice everywhere since a van is inherently a mobile, sometimes-wet environment. Install GFCI outlets at each location or wire a GFCI breaker to protect an entire circuit. GFCI also provides protection if your neutral-ground bonding has any issues.

How to Wire 120V Outlets from an Inverter in a Van or RV

Wiring 120V outlets from an inverter follows standard household electrical principles, with a few van-specific considerations. Here's how to do it correctly.

What you need

Pure sine wave inverter (sized for your loads — see what size inverter?)
14 AWG or 12 AWG 3-conductor wire (hot/neutral/ground), NM cable (Romex) or THWN/THHN in conduit
GFCI outlets or GFCI breaker
Small AC distribution panel (optional but recommended for multiple circuits)
Wire connectors, conduit/cable management

Option 1: Direct wiring (1–2 outlets)

For a simple build with one or two outlets, wire directly from the inverter:

Inverter AC output → 3-conductor cable → outlet box
Connect: Hot (black) → brass screw, Neutral (white) → silver screw, Ground (green/bare) → green screw
Use GFCI outlet at the first outlet in the run; any downstream outlets connected to the GFCI's "load" terminals are also protected

This is the simplest approach but offers no branch circuit protection between the inverter and outlets.

Option 2: Small AC distribution panel (recommended)

For a van with multiple outlets, an induction cooktop, and different circuits:

Inverter AC output
       ↓
[Small AC panel, 6–12 spaces]
       ↓           ↓           ↓
[15A kitchen] [15A living] [20A cooking]
       ↓           ↓           ↓
[GFCI outlets] [GFCI outlets] [Induction circuit]

Recommended panels:

Blue Sea Systems 120V AC panel (6-8 circuits, ~$100) — van/marine-grade, compact
Siemens or Square D 6-space load center (~$50) — standard residential, works fine if you have space

The panel provides per-circuit breaker protection so a fault on one circuit doesn't affect others, and makes it easy to add circuits later.

Wire gauge reference

Circuit	Breaker	Wire gauge	Notes
Standard 120V outlets	15A	14 AWG	Most outlets, phone chargers, laptop
Higher-draw outlets	20A	12 AWG	Coffee maker, hair dryer
Induction cooktop	20A	12 AWG	1,800W cooktop at 120V = 15A, use 20A circuit
Microwave	15–20A	14–12 AWG	Depends on microwave wattage

Installation steps

Disconnect battery before starting any wiring.
Run cable from inverter AC output to panel or first outlet.
Terminate at panel: hot to breaker, neutral to neutral bar, ground to ground bar.
Run branch circuits from panel to outlet boxes. Keep cables secured and protected — use grommets through any metal surfaces, conduit in high-traffic areas.
Install GFCI outlets or ensure GFCI protection from a GFCI breaker.
Verify neutral-to-ground bond exists only at inverter (see inverter grounding).
Test all outlets with a circuit tester before connecting loads.

Only one neutral-to-ground bond

Do not bond neutral to ground at the panel or outlet boxes. The bond exists inside the inverter. Adding a second bond creates a ground loop that can trip GFCIs and cause equipment issues.

Cable management

Route AC wiring separately from DC wiring where possible to reduce interference in audio equipment. Secure cables every 12–18 inches in living areas, use cable clips or conduit. Avoid routing through areas that get wet or very hot (next to the engine, under the van body without conduit).