How to Size an Inverter for a Van or RV (Step-by-Step)

· 3 min readInverters & 120V Power
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Sizing an inverter wrong in either direction causes problems: too small and it can't start your appliances; too big and you're paying for capacity (and standby drain) you'll never use. Here's the step-by-step for US van and RV builds.

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Step 1: List your AC (120V) loads

Only count things that need a wall-style 120V outlet — most laptops, phones, and small electronics charge fine over 12V/USB and don't need to go through an inverter at all.

ApplianceRunning wattsSurge watts
Laptop charger65W~65W
Blender300W~600W
Microwave (1,000W rated)~1,200W~1,800W
CPAP (no humidifier)30-60W~60W
Induction cooktop (single burner)1,500-1,800W~1,800W

Step 2: Find your largest simultaneous load

Most people don't run a microwave and a blender at the same time, so size for the single largest device (or realistic combination) you'd actually run together — not the sum of everything you own.

Step 3: Add ~25% headroom and check surge

Inverter size ≈ largest load × 1.25, then confirm the inverter's surge rating covers the startup spike of motors and compressors (typically 2x running watts).

  • Laptop only → 300-800W inverter is plenty.
  • Blender or CPAP → 800-1,000W.
  • Microwave → 1,000-1,500W, with surge rating of at least 1,800-2,000W.
  • Induction cooktop → 2,000W+, and check the battery side carefully (next step).

Step 4: Check the battery-side current

This is the step people skip — and it's the one that determines your wiring and fusing, not just the inverter:

Battery amps ≈ inverter watts ÷ (12V × 0.87 efficiency)

A 2,000W inverter at full load pulls about 190A. That needs:

  • 2/0 AWG cable (or larger) for the inverter-to-bus-bar run
  • A Class T fuse rated for that current, mounted within ~7 inches of the battery
  • A battery bank rated to deliver 190A continuously without excessive voltage sag — most 200Ah+ LiFePO4 banks handle this comfortably

Full wiring detail is in the wiring & safety guide.

Don't undersize the cable to save cost

A 2,000W inverter run on undersized cable will trip on voltage drop under load, or worse, overheat the cable. The cable and fuse must match the inverter's full-load current — not a "typical" estimate.

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