Inverter vs Inverter/Charger: Which Do You Need for a Van or RV?
When planning 120V power for a van or RV, you'll quickly hit the question of whether to buy a standalone inverter or an inverter/charger combo. The answer depends on whether you use shore power and how clean you want the wiring to be.
For the full 120V power picture, see the inverters & 120V power guide.
Standalone inverter
A standalone inverter does one job: converts your 12V house battery into 120V AC so you can run appliances off-grid. Wire it to the house battery, run an outlet or two, done.
Best for:
- Builds that rarely or never use campground shore power
- Builds that already have a separate shore charger (Victron Blue Smart IP22, PowerMax)
- Lower-budget builds where the all-in-one isn't needed
US picks: Renogy 1000W Pure Sine ($120), Renogy 2000W Pure Sine ($200), Victron Phoenix 12/1200 (~$350).
Inverter/charger combo
An inverter/charger combines three functions in one box:
- Inverter — converts battery to 120V AC when off-grid
- Shore power charger — converts campground 120V AC to charge the house battery
- Automatic transfer switch — when shore power is connected, it switches the 120V outlets from inverter-backed to shore power, and starts charging the battery; when shore power disconnects, it switches back to inverter mode — all in milliseconds, silently
The result is a single box that handles both off-grid power and campground power with no manual intervention.
Best for:
- Full-timers who use campgrounds regularly
- Anyone who wants seamless shore power integration
- Builds that want to minimize box count and wiring complexity
US picks:
Victron MultiPlus 12/1600/70 (~$500–$550) — the standard for van builds. 1,600W continuous inverter output, 70A shore charger, and Victron's rock-solid reliability. Configurable via VictronConnect. Works perfectly in a Victron ecosystem (SmartShunt, SmartSolar).
Victron MultiPlus 12/2000/80 (~$650–$700) — step up to 2,000W if you want to run an induction cooktop or other high-draw appliances from the inverter.
Renogy 2000W Inverter/Charger (~$350) — more budget-friendly, less Victron-ecosystem integration but solid for the price.
Cost comparison
| Setup | Approx. cost | Shore power integration |
|---|---|---|
| Standalone inverter (2000W) | $200 | No (need separate converter) |
| Separate converter/charger | $150–$250 | Yes (for charging only) |
| Manual transfer switch | $50–$150 | Adds switching |
| Total standalone path | $400–$600 | Manual |
| Victron MultiPlus 12/2000 | $650–$700 | Seamless, automatic |
When you add up the standalone inverter + shore charger + transfer switch, the inverter/charger starts to look more reasonable — especially when you factor in the cleaner wiring and automatic transfer switching.
The wiring difference
Standalone inverter + separate charger: Two separate boxes, each wired independently to the house battery. The 120V AC outlets need a transfer switch to decide whether they're fed by the inverter or shore power. This works but adds a layer of wiring complexity.
Inverter/charger: One box with 12V battery connections (in/out), a shore power input, and 120V AC output to outlets. The transfer switch is built in. Shore power arrives → outlets switch automatically → battery charges. Engine starts, drive away → outlets switch back to inverter. No manual steps.
The MultiPlus is pre-wired for PowerAssist
Victron's MultiPlus supports PowerAssist — when on shore power with a limited current source (say, 15A at a friend's house), it supplements shore power with battery power so you never trip a breaker. A useful feature for builds that use non-RV outlets.
Recommendation
- Shore power rarely or never: standalone inverter + separate shore charger when needed
- Shore power regularly, want seamless integration: Victron MultiPlus 12/1600 or 12/2000
- Tight budget, occasional shore use: standalone inverter + manual transfer switch + Victron Blue Smart IP22 charger