Shore power is the fastest way to top up a van or RV battery — plug into a campground pedestal or household outlet and let a converter/charger do the work. Here's how the US connections and wiring work.
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TT-30 vs. 14-50: which do you need?
| Connector | Amps | Voltage | Typical use |
|---|---|---|---|
| NEMA TT-30 | 30A | 120V only | Most van builds, smaller RVs, most campground pedestals |
| NEMA 14-50 | 50A | 120/240V split-phase | Larger RVs/motorhomes with multiple AC units, large appliances |
For the vast majority of van conversions — a single converter/charger, maybe an inverter/charger, lights and outlets — a 30A (TT-30) inlet is plenty. A 14-50 is overkill unless you're running genuinely RV-scale 120V loads.
The converter/charger
The shore power inlet feeds a converter/charger, which:
- Converts 120V AC to regulated 12V DC
- Charges the house battery with the correct (ideally LiFePO4) profile
- Can power 12V loads directly while plugged in, reducing battery drain
US picks: Victron Blue Smart IP22 12/30 ($215) — Bluetooth-enabled, multi-stage, LiFePO4-compatible. PowerMax PM4-55A ($150) — budget option, widely used in towable RVs and conversions.
US equipment options
Compare a combined inverter/charger route
This is relevant only if you also need inverter power. It is not a complete inlet, cable, breaker-panel or shore-power installation kit.
120V inverter/charger
Victron MultiPlus-II 12/3000/120-50 120V (UL 458) Inverter Charger
One route for a build that needs both an inverter and shore-power battery charging.
Check before choosing: This exact 12V/120V model, continuous watts versus VA, battery-current limits and qualified AC installation.
These links open our US shop. Check the exact configuration, current price and availability there; affiliate products are purchased from the named supplier. We may earn a commission from qualifying purchases.
Plugging into a household outlet
A standard household outlet (NEMA 5-15, 15A, or 5-20, 20A) can power your van through a 30A-to-15A "dogbone" adapter. You won't get the full 30A — you're limited to whatever the household circuit can safely supply (typically 12-16A continuous on a 15A circuit) — but that's enough to run a converter/charger and basic loads.
Don't overload a household circuit
A 15A household circuit may also be feeding other things in the house. Drawing close to its limit from your RV converter plus whatever else is on that circuit can trip the breaker. For just charging the battery, this is rarely an issue — converters typically draw well under 15A.
The 120V side is NEC Article 551 territory
Everything from the shore inlet through the breaker panel to any 120V outlets must follow NEC Article 551 — including GFCI protection on outlets and proper grounding/bonding. The DC output of the converter/charger is DIY-friendly; the AC input side should be installed or inspected by a licensed electrician.
Never back-feed shore power from an inverter
If you also have an inverter, never wire it to feed back into the shore power inlet without a proper transfer switch (built into combo units like the Victron MultiPlus). Back-feeding can energize the shore cord and create a serious shock hazard for anyone who plugs you in.
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Jack Kennedy is a self-builder who has built two vans. He created Roam Wired to simplify conversion planning and share free tools, supported by affiliate links.
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