Where should an inverter be mounted in a van?

As close to the battery as practical, to keep the heavy DC cable run short — every extra foot of cable at inverter-level current adds cost and voltage drop. Mount it in a ventilated area away from moisture, with clearance for airflow, since inverters generate heat under load.

Does an inverter need its own fuse?

Yes — a dedicated fuse sized to the inverter's full-load DC current, placed on the positive cable as close to the battery/bus bar as practical. For inverters over ~1,000W, this is typically an ANL or Class T fuse, not a small blade fuse.

Does an inverter need to be grounded?

Yes. The inverter's chassis ground connects to the vehicle's chassis ground/bonding point, and its AC output ground (if wired to outlets) follows the same grounding scheme as the rest of the 120V system per NEC Article 551.

How to Wire an Inverter in a Van or RV: Step-by-Step

Wiring an inverter correctly is mostly about three things: short heavy cable, the right fuse, and proper grounding. Here's the step-by-step for a US van or RV build, building on the inverters & 120V power guide.

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Step 1: Mount it close to the battery

Inverter cable carries the highest current in the system — at 2,000W, roughly 190A. Every foot of cable at that current adds cost and voltage drop, so mount the inverter as close to the battery/bus bars as the install allows, in a ventilated spot (inverters generate heat under load and need airflow).

Step 2: Run the DC cable

Size the positive and negative DC cables for the inverter's full-load current — for a 2,000W inverter, that's 2/0 AWG or larger. Both cables run from the inverter to the bus bars (not directly to the battery terminals). See the AWG wire size chart for other sizes.

Step 3: Add the fuse

A dedicated fuse goes on the positive DC cable, sized to the inverter's full-load current:

Under ~1,000W: an ANL or MIDI fuse rated appropriately.
2,000W+: typically an ANL or Class T fuse rated 200-250A, placed as close to the bus bar/battery as practical.

See RV fuse sizing for the full method.

Step 4: Ground the inverter

Chassis ground: connect the inverter's case/ground terminal to the vehicle's single chassis bonding point — the same one used for the rest of the 12V system.
AC output ground: if the inverter feeds fixed 120V outlets, the AC ground conductor follows the same grounding/bonding scheme as the rest of the AC system, per NEC Article 551.

The AC output side needs NEC-compliant wiring

Running the inverter's 120V output to fixed outlets means that wiring — breakers, GFCI, grounding — falls under NEC Article 551. The DC input side (steps 1-3) is DIY-friendly; the AC output side should be installed or inspected by a licensed electrician.

Step 5: Add a remote switch (optional but recommended)

Inverters draw power just being switched on (standby draw). A remote on/off switch, mounted somewhere convenient, lets you fully power down the inverter when you're not using AC — without crawling to reach the unit itself.

Step 6: Test before relying on it

With the inverter wired and fused, test with a small known load (a lamp, a phone charger) before connecting anything sensitive. Confirm the battery monitor shows the expected current draw, and check cable temperatures after a few minutes under load — warm is normal, hot is not.