Shore Power for Campervans: Hook-Up Wiring & Safety

Shore power (also called electric hook-up or EHU) lets you connect your campervan to a campsite's mains electricity supply. Once connected, you can charge your leisure battery, run 230V appliances, and power your van just like being plugged in at home.

Getting shore power wired correctly is critical — 230V mains electricity in a metal vehicle is not something to get wrong. This guide covers the complete wiring setup for UK campervans, from the inlet to the consumer unit, including safety requirements and component selection. For the full charging picture, see our campervan charging systems guide.

If you are new to campsite hook-ups, start with our EHU explained guide. And use the VanPower calculator to size your entire electrical system, including the shore power components.

How Shore Power Works in a Campervan

The basic setup is straightforward:

1. Campsite supply post provides 230V AC through a blue CEE connector (typically 10A or 16A, giving 2.3kW or 3.6kW).
2. Hook-up cable runs from the supply post to your van's external shore power inlet.
3. Inside the van, the inlet connects to a consumer unit (also called a distribution board) containing an RCD and MCBs.
4. From the consumer unit, circuits run to your 230V sockets, battery charger (like the Victron Blue Smart IP22), and any hardwired 230V appliances.
5. An earth connection bonds the van's metalwork to the mains earth for safety.

The Key Components

Shore Power Inlet Installation

The inlet is a blue CEE (IEC 60309) socket that mounts on the outside of your van. It needs to be:

• Waterproof when the cover is closed (IP44 minimum)
• Accessible — low enough to reach comfortably but high enough to avoid water splash
• Located on the opposite side to your gas locker (if you have one)

We have a dedicated step-by-step guide for this: shore power inlet installation.

Consumer Unit: The Heart of Your Shore Power System

The consumer unit is a small distribution board that provides critical safety protection. For a campervan, you need:

RCD (Residual Current Device)

An RCD detects earth faults — current leaking through your body or through the van's metalwork — and disconnects the supply in milliseconds. In a metal vehicle, this is your primary safety device.

Requirement: 30mA trip current, Type A RCD. This is non-negotiable for campervan installations.

MCBs (Miniature Circuit Breakers)

MCBs protect individual circuits against overcurrent (short circuit or overload). A typical campervan consumer unit has:

• MCB 1: Battery charger circuit (6A or 10A)
• MCB 2: Socket circuit (10A or 16A)
• MCB 3: Additional circuit if needed (air conditioning, water heater, etc.)

For full wiring details, see campervan consumer unit wiring.

Wiring the Shore Power System

Cable Specification

All 230V wiring in your campervan should use:

• 2.5mm² 3-core flexible cable (live, neutral, earth) for socket circuits
• 1.5mm² 3-core flexible cable for lighting circuits or low-power fixed appliances
• Arctic-grade cable (rated for -25C to +60C) — standard household cable is not suitable for a vehicle environment
• Blue or orange sheathed cable is conventional for 230V in caravans/motorhomes (to distinguish from 12V wiring)

Wiring Sequence

1. Inlet to consumer unit: 2.5mm² 3-core cable from the shore power inlet to the RCD input on the consumer unit. Keep this run as short as practical.

2. Consumer unit to battery charger: 1.5mm² or 2.5mm² cable from an MCB to the Victron IP22 or equivalent charger. The charger then has 12V output cables running to your leisure battery.

3. Consumer unit to 230V sockets: 2.5mm² cable from an MCB to each socket location. In a small van, you can daisy-chain sockets on a single circuit (ring or radial).

4. Earth bonding: A separate earth cable (4mm² minimum, green/yellow) from the consumer unit earth bar to the van's chassis. This bonds the van's metalwork to the mains earth.

Wiring Diagram Overview

Campsite Post → Hook-up Cable → Shore Power Inlet
                                      ↓
                               Consumer Unit (RCD + MCBs)
                              ↙        ↓          ↘
                     Battery     230V Socket    230V Socket
                     Charger     (kitchen)      (living area)
                        ↓
                  Leisure Battery (12V)

Earthing and Bonding

Earthing is the single most important safety aspect of your shore power installation. In a metal van, a fault in a 230V appliance could energise the entire body of the vehicle. Without proper earthing, anyone touching the van would receive a potentially fatal shock.

What You Need

1. Main earthing terminal in the consumer unit connected to the earth conductor in the hook-up cable.
2. Protective bonding conductor (4mm² green/yellow) from the consumer unit earth bar to a clean, bare-metal point on the van chassis.
3. Earth continuity in every 230V circuit — the earth conductor in your wiring cable must connect through to every socket and appliance.

Testing

After installation, use a socket tester (available for about £10) to verify:

• Correct wiring at each socket (live, neutral, earth all present and correctly connected)
• Earth loop impedance is acceptable
• RCD trips when the test button is pressed

Campsite Supply: What to Expect

UK Campsites

Most UK campsites provide:

• Blue CEE 16A socket (3.6kW maximum)
• Some older sites have 10A sockets (2.3kW maximum)
• Supply is 230V single-phase AC

European Campsites

If you travel to the continent:

• Supply is the same 230V with blue CEE connectors (European standard)
• Amperage varies widely — some French sites provide only 6A (1.3kW)
• You may need a longer hook-up cable

The Hook-Up Cable

Your hook-up cable needs:

• Blue CEE plug (male) at the campsite end
• Blue CEE connector (female) at the van end — this plugs into your inlet
• 2.5mm² 3-core cable, 25 metres is standard
• Orange sheath (high visibility)
• Must be uncoiled when in use to prevent overheating

Battery Charging from Shore Power

The primary benefit of shore power for many van lifers is battery charging. A dedicated 230V-to-12V battery charger converts the mains supply to the correct charging profile for your leisure battery.

The Victron Blue Smart IP22 is our top recommendation — see the full setup guide. It is available in 15A and 30A versions, supports LiFePO4 and lead-acid batteries, and has Bluetooth monitoring.

Charging Speed from Shore Power

A 30A IP22 charger delivers up to 30A at 12V (360W) to your leisure battery. From a 16A campsite supply (3.6kW), this uses about 10% of the available power — leaving plenty of headroom for running other 230V appliances simultaneously.

Safety Considerations for Shore Power

Polarity

UK mains has a live and neutral conductor. If polarity is reversed (live and neutral swapped), your RCD may not trip correctly in a fault. Use a polarity tester at each campsite. Some older European sites have reversed polarity — a polarity reversal adapter can fix this.

Wet Conditions

Your shore power inlet must be waterproof when closed and when the cable is connected. Ensure the cable connection is secure and the inlet cover seals properly. Never leave the inlet open without a cable connected in wet weather.

Isolation

Always disconnect the hook-up cable at the campsite post first (supply side), then at your van. This ensures you are never handling a live connector. When connecting, do it in reverse — van first, then campsite post.

Do You Need Shore Power?

Not every campervan needs shore power. Consider:

You probably need shore power if:

• You stay on campsites regularly
• You have a large battery bank that benefits from fast mains charging
• You want to run high-power 230V appliances (air conditioning, electric heater) while on hook-up
• You want the convenience of unlimited power on campsites

You might skip shore power if:

• You only wild camp or use aires
• Your solar and DC-DC charging cover your needs
• You want to keep the build simple and lightweight

For most UK campervans, shore power is worth installing even if you do not use it often. The components are inexpensive and add resilience to your system.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much does it cost to install shore power in a campervan?

Budget around £200-£400 for all components (inlet, consumer unit, battery charger, cable, sockets). The Victron IP22 charger is the biggest single cost at £90-£140. The rest is relatively inexpensive.

Can I wire shore power myself?

Legally, yes — campervan 230V wiring is not covered by Part P of the Building Regulations (which applies to domestic dwellings). Practically, you need to be confident with mains wiring. If in doubt, hire a qualified electrician.

What size hook-up cable do I need?

A standard 25-metre, 2.5mm², 3-core cable with blue CEE connectors is suitable for all UK and European campsites. Always fully uncoil the cable when in use.

Can I run a kettle on shore power?

Yes, on a 16A supply (3.6kW). A standard kettle draws about 2.2-3kW, which is within the campsite supply limit. You may not be able to run a kettle and another high-power appliance simultaneously.

Do I need shore power if I have solar and a DC-DC charger?

You do not strictly need it, but shore power provides fast, reliable charging regardless of weather or driving. In winter, when UK solar output is minimal, shore power on campsites can be invaluable.