Campervan Shore Power Inlet Installation (Step-by-Step)

Your shore power inlet is the external socket where you plug in the campsite hook-up cable. It is the first physical component in your campervan shore power system, and installing it properly means cutting a hole in the side of your van — so you want to get it right first time.

This guide covers the complete installation process, from choosing the right inlet to sealing and wiring. For the full shore power system (consumer unit, battery charger, sockets), see our shore power wiring guide. Use the VanPower calculator to plan your entire 230V system before you start drilling.

Choosing the Right Inlet

CEE Blue Connector (Standard)

The industry standard for caravans, motorhomes, and campervans in the UK and Europe is the blue CEE connector (IEC 60309, 2P+E, 16A). This is the same connector used on campsite supply posts.

You need a panel-mount female CEE socket (also called a surface-mount inlet or flush-mount inlet). The hook-up cable's female connector plugs into this.

Options:

Our pick: A flush-mount inlet with an integrated cover flap, from a brand like Mains Hook Up (MHU), CBE, or Whale. Budget around £25-£40.

Power Rating

All standard blue CEE inlets are rated for 16A (3.6kW). This matches the maximum supply you will find at UK campsites. There is no need to overspec this — 16A is the standard.

Choosing the Location

Location matters. Consider these factors:

Height

• Mount between 300mm and 600mm from the ground
• Too low and it is vulnerable to water splash, road spray, and damage from kerbs
• Too high and it is awkward to reach, especially in a tall van

Side of Van

• Driver side (offside): Common for UK conversions. The campsite supply post is usually accessible from either side, so this is fine.
• Passenger side (nearside): Also common. Some converters prefer the nearside as it faces the pitch on most UK campsites.
• Rear: Possible but less common. Can interfere with door operation.

Avoiding Obstructions

Before cutting, check what is behind the panel on the inside:

• Structural members: Do not cut through chassis rails, crossmembers, or reinforcing ribs.
• Wiring looms: The vehicle's factory wiring often runs behind the lower panels. Use a torch and inspection mirror to check.
• Fuel lines and brake lines: These run along the chassis rails. Stay clear.
• Insulation: If you have already insulated, you will need to cut through and seal around the insulation.

Distance from Gas

If your van has an LPG gas locker, the shore power inlet should be at least 300mm away from any gas vents or gas locker openings (BS EN 1648-2).

Tools and Materials

Tools

• Jigsaw with metal-cutting blade (or hole saw of appropriate size)
• Drill with pilot bit and step bit
• Centre punch
• Marker pen
• Masking tape
• Metal file or deburring tool
• Sealant gun
• Multimeter

Materials

• Flush-mount or surface-mount CEE inlet
• Sikaflex 221 or equivalent polyurethane sealant (not silicone — it does not bond well to metal)
• Self-tapping stainless steel screws (if not included with inlet)
• 2.5mm² 3-core arctic-grade flexible cable
• Cable gland or grommet for where the cable enters the van interior
• Rust treatment paint (Hammerite or similar)
• Masking tape

Step-by-Step Installation

Step 1: Mark the Cutout

1. Decide on the exact position using the criteria above.
2. Hold the inlet mounting plate against the van panel and trace around the cutout opening with a marker pen.
3. Alternatively, use the paper template supplied with most flush-mount inlets.
4. Apply masking tape around the marked area — this protects the paint and helps prevent the jigsaw from scratching.

Step 2: Drill a Pilot Hole

1. Centre-punch a starting point inside the marked cutout area.
2. Drill a pilot hole (3-4mm) through the panel.
3. From inside the van, verify the hole is in the right position and clear of obstructions.

Step 3: Cut the Opening

For a round inlet (surface-mount):

• Use a hole saw of the appropriate diameter (typically 32mm or 50mm depending on the model).

For a rectangular inlet (flush-mount):

1. Drill relief holes at each corner of the marked rectangle (8-10mm drill bit).
2. Insert the jigsaw blade into one of the relief holes.
3. Cut along the marked lines to remove the rectangular section.
4. File the edges smooth and remove all burrs.

Step 4: Treat the Cut Edges

Bare metal will rust. Immediately after cutting:

1. Clean the cut edges of any filings and dust.
2. Apply rust treatment paint (Hammerite Kurust or similar) to every exposed edge.
3. Let it dry according to the paint manufacturer's instructions.

Step 5: Dry-Fit the Inlet

1. Place the inlet into the cutout and check the fit. It should sit flush (for flush-mount) or flat against the panel (for surface-mount).
2. Mark the screw hole positions through the inlet's mounting holes.
3. Remove the inlet and drill pilot holes for the mounting screws (2-3mm).

Step 6: Apply Sealant and Mount

1. Run a generous bead of Sikaflex 221 (or equivalent) around the back of the inlet mounting flange. Cover the full perimeter — this is your waterproof seal.
2. Press the inlet firmly into position.
3. Insert and tighten the mounting screws. Tighten evenly and not so much that you crack the inlet housing.
4. Clean up any sealant squeeze-out with a damp cloth and white spirit.
5. Allow 24-48 hours for the sealant to cure fully before exposing to water.

Step 7: Wire the Inlet

Inside the van:

1. Pass your 2.5mm² 3-core arctic cable through a cable gland or grommet into the inlet housing.
2. Connect the conductors to the inlet terminals:
   • Brown (live) to the L terminal
   • Blue (neutral) to the N terminal
   • Green/yellow (earth) to the E terminal
3. Ensure connections are tight — loose connections cause arcing and overheating.
4. Secure the cable with a cable gland to prevent strain on the terminals.

Step 8: Route Cable to Consumer Unit

Route the cable from the inlet to your consumer unit location:

• Secure every 300-500mm with cable clips
• Use conduit or trunking where the cable is exposed or could be damaged
• Keep 230V cables separated from 12V cables (minimum 50mm gap or use a physical barrier)
• Clearly label the cable as "230V MAINS" at regular intervals

Testing the Installation

Before connecting to a campsite supply for the first time:

1. Visual inspection: Check all connections are tight, correctly terminated, and insulated.
2. Continuity test: Use a multimeter to verify earth continuity from the inlet earth terminal through to the consumer unit earth bar and the van chassis.
3. Insulation test: If you have access to an insulation resistance tester (Megger), test between live and earth, and neutral and earth. Reading should be greater than 1 megaohm.
4. Polarity check: Connect the hook-up cable and use a socket tester at each 230V socket to verify correct wiring.
5. RCD test: Press the test button on your RCD. It must trip immediately.

Weatherproofing

Your inlet will be exposed to rain, road spray, jet wash, and everything British weather can throw at it. Ensure:

• The cover flap closes fully and springs shut when released
• The sealant bead around the mounting flange is continuous with no gaps
• The inlet housing drains — flush-mount inlets should have a slight downward tilt or drainage channels
• When the hook-up cable is connected, the connection point is weather-resistant (blue CEE connectors are designed to be IP44 when mated)

Check the sealant annually and re-apply if it cracks or separates from the van body.

Connecting the Victron Blue Smart IP22

The most common device powered from your shore power system is a battery charger. The Victron Blue Smart IP22 connects to an MCB in your consumer unit via a standard 3-pin plug or hardwired connection, and its 12V output runs to your leisure battery.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I install the inlet myself?

Yes. Cutting the hole is the nerve-wracking part, but it is straightforward with the right tools and careful marking. The wiring is standard 230V three-core cable. If you are not confident with mains wiring, do the physical inlet installation yourself and have an electrician wire it up.

What sealant should I use?

Sikaflex 221 or an equivalent polyurethane adhesive sealant. Do not use silicone — it does not bond well to painted metal and can peel off over time. Sikaflex creates a permanent, flexible, waterproof bond.

Which side of the van is best?

Either side works. In the UK, nearside (passenger side) is slightly more common as it typically faces the campsite pitch. But there is no wrong answer — choose based on your interior layout and what is behind the panel.

Can I use a standard household socket instead of a blue CEE inlet?

No. A CEE blue connector is the standard for caravan and motorhome hook-up. Campsite supply cables use this connector. A standard UK 13A socket is not weatherproof and does not provide the correct mating connection.

How do I connect at a campsite?

Plug the male end of your hook-up cable into the campsite supply post first, then connect the female end to your inlet. To disconnect, remove from the inlet first (your end), then from the campsite post. This ensures you never handle a live connector.