Electrical Systemarticle

Weekender vs Full-Time Van Electrical: How to Size the Difference

How to size a van electrical system for weekend use vs full-time van life — battery, solar, and charging source differences between the two use cases.

Updated June 20, 20263 min readPractical, transparent guidance
Campervan inspiration for Weekender vs Full-Time Van Electrical: How to Size the Difference
Affiliate disclosure: Some links in this article are affiliate links. If you purchase through them, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. We only recommend products we genuinely believe in.

The single biggest factor in electrical system sizing is how you use the van. A weekend build and a full-time rig have fundamentally different requirements.

Weekend use: how it actually works

A weekend user drives out Friday evening and returns Sunday or Monday. They have:

  • A full battery leaving home
  • 2–3 nights of power use
  • A drive home to recharge via the alternator
  • Potentially limited or no solar in shaded camping spots

What this means technically:

  • Battery only needs to cover 2–3 days without full recharge
  • Solar is helpful but not critical — the drive recharges the battery
  • No need to be self-sustaining indefinitely

Weekend system: 100Ah LiFePO4 + 200W solar + 20A DC-DC

ComponentWeekend spec
Battery100Ah LiFePO4
Solar200W
MPPT controller20A
DC-DC charger20A (Renogy DCC20S)
Inverter1,000W (if needed)

Cost of components: ~$700–$1,000. This handles a fridge, phone, LED lighting, and laptop for 2–3 nights comfortably.

Full-time use: what changes

A full-timer may park for 3–5 days in the same spot, work from their laptop all day, cook meals, and not drive every day. They need:

  • 2–3 days of battery autonomy without any charging
  • Enough solar to be self-sustaining in moderate conditions
  • DC-DC charging for driving days

Full-time system: 200–300Ah LiFePO4 + 300–400W solar + 30A DC-DC

ComponentFull-time spec
Battery200–300Ah LiFePO4
Solar300–400W
MPPT controller30–40A
DC-DC charger30A (Renogy DCC30S or Victron Orion XS 30A)
Inverter2,000W
Battery monitorVictron SmartShunt + BMV-712

Cost of components: ~$1,800–$2,800. This handles all typical full-time loads including induction cooking.

Specific scenarios

Weekend + campground hookups: If you mostly camp at sites with shore power, electrical needs drop significantly — a 100Ah battery and no solar may be all you need, with a simple shore power converter charger for the nights you're hooked up.

Full-time + heavy work setup: Remote workers running dual monitors and desktop PCs need 400Ah+ and 500–600W solar. Induction cooking twice a day on top of this pushes daily loads to 1,500Wh+.

Van life in the US southwest: Excellent sun means solar is reliable. 300W solar often produces 1,200Wh/day — self-sustaining for most full-time loads.

Full-time in the Pacific Northwest or winter: Fewer sun hours. Solar underperforms. DC-DC charger while driving becomes the primary recharge. Ensure you drive frequently enough or supplement with shore power.

Upgrade path

Design your initial build to be upgradeable:

  • Install bus bars rather than wiring directly to battery — adding a second battery later is easier
  • Leave space in the fuse block for additional circuits
  • Size your solar charge controller for more panels than you initially install (a 40A controller with 200W of panels can accept 400W later)
RW

Roam Wired

Roam Wired turns campervan research into practical plans. We publish transparent guidance, a free electrical design tool and marketplace resources for UK and US van builders.

About our approach