How to Wire a Shore Power Inlet in a Van (Step by Step)
Adding shore power to a van gives you mains-speed battery charging whenever you're at a campground, friend's house, or any 120V outlet. Here's how the wiring flows.
For context on the converter/charger that connects to the inlet: RV converter/charger explained and best RV converter/charger.
120V AC is licensed-electrician territory in most states
The shore power inlet and AC wiring carries line voltage — the same as household wiring. In most US states, this work requires a licensed electrician or must be inspected by one. The 12V DC output from the converter/charger is standard low-voltage work that most van builders handle themselves. Don't skip the 120V portion — a wiring fault here can cause shock or fire.
What you need
- NEMA TT-30 shore power inlet (weatherproof, with cover)
- 10 AWG 3-conductor wire (hot, neutral, ground) from inlet to breaker
- 30A single-pole AC breaker
- Small AC breaker panel or inline breaker holder
- Converter/charger (Victron Blue Smart IP22, PowerMax, etc.)
- 10 AWG wire from converter/charger DC output to house battery
- ANL or inline fuse on DC output side
The wiring flow
Shore power path:
- NEMA TT-30 inlet (exterior mount) → 10 AWG 3-conductor cable
- → 30A breaker (protects the inlet cable and converter/charger)
- → Converter/charger AC input (120V to the charger)
- → Converter/charger DC output → house battery (via 10 AWG cable, fused within 12 inches of battery)
Step 1: Choose and mount the inlet
Mount the NEMA TT-30 inlet on the exterior — driver's side or passenger's side wall, typically 12–18 inches from the floor for easy access. Drill a hole sized for the inlet's barrel, fit from outside, secure with the backing plate inside. Use marine sealant around the edges to waterproof.
Inlet options: Standard RV inlets are fine. For a cleaner look, Marinco or Blue Sea outlets have better weatherproofing and a more finished appearance.
Step 2: Run the AC cable
Run 10 AWG 3-conductor wire (often sold as 10/3 SJOOW or 10/3 THHN) from the inlet to your converter/charger location inside the van. Protect it with conduit or split loom where it passes through walls or near sharp edges. The three conductors are:
- Black (hot): carries current from the outlet
- White (neutral): return path
- Green or bare (ground): safety ground
Step 3: Install the breaker
A 30A single-pole breaker protects the AC circuit between the inlet and converter/charger. This can be:
- A small AC breaker panel (Siemens, Square D — a 2-space or 4-space mini panel)
- An inline 30A breaker in a weatherproof box
- Part of an inverter/charger's built-in circuit protection
Wire hot (black) through the breaker. Neutral (white) connects to the neutral bar. Ground connects to the ground bar.
Step 4: Connect the converter/charger
The AC input of the converter/charger connects to the output of the 30A breaker. Hot to hot, neutral to neutral, ground to ground. Consult the converter/charger manual — most have clear terminal labels.
Step 5: Wire the DC output to the battery
The DC output of the converter/charger runs to your house battery:
- Positive from converter/charger → ANL fuse (within 12 inches of battery positive terminal) → house battery positive
- Negative from converter/charger → main negative bus bar
Cable sizing: 10 AWG for a 30A charger on runs under 10 feet.
Step 6: Test
Before connecting shore power:
- Confirm all connections are tight
- Confirm the breaker is off
- Connect a shore power cord to the inlet (without plugging into power)
- Plug into a 120V outlet or shore power pedestal
- Turn the breaker on
- The converter/charger should illuminate and begin charging — verify with the VictronConnect app (if using Blue Smart) or the display on your charger