How Much Solar Do I Need for My RV or Van?

· 5 min readSolar
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The right solar panel wattage for your van or RV comes down to three numbers: how much energy you use each day, how many hours of useful sun you get in your location, and how many days of buffer you want before you need to plug in or drive.

For the full system picture, see the solar setup guide. For panel recommendations, see best solar panels for RV & van builds.

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Step 1: Calculate your daily watt-hours

List every electrical load and estimate daily use:

LoadWattsHours/dayWh/day
12V compressor fridge50W avg24480
LED lighting10W440
Laptop charging60W2120
Phone charging (×2)10W330
Diesel heater (fan only)10W880
Vent fan20W6120
Total870Wh/day

Your number will vary. A minimal setup (no fridge, just lights and device charging) might be 200Wh/day. A full-timer with a larger fridge, CPAP, and a laptop for remote work might hit 1,500–2,000Wh/day.

Step 2: Find your peak sun hours

"Peak sun hours" (PSH) is the number of hours per day your location receives equivalent full-sun intensity (1,000 W/m²). It's not total daylight — a cloudy day might produce only 1–2 PSH even if the sun is up for 14 hours.

Approximate average PSH by region (summer/winter):

RegionSummer PSHWinter PSH
Southwest US (AZ, NM, SoCal)6–74–5
Southeast (FL, TX)5–63–4
Pacific Coast (CA, OR, WA)5–62–3
Mountain States (CO, UT)6–74–5
Northeast (NY, MA, ME)5–62–3
Midwest4–52–3
Pacific Northwest4–51–2

Size for your worst-case months if you travel year-round. For full-timers following the sun, you can size for average conditions.

Step 3: Calculate solar panel wattage

Formula: Panel watts = (Daily Wh ÷ system efficiency) ÷ peak sun hours

System efficiency accounts for MPPT losses, wiring losses, temperature derating, and panel soiling — budget about 75–80% efficiency overall.

Example: 870Wh/day load, 5 PSH, 75% efficiency:

870 ÷ 0.75 = 1,160Wh from solar needed → 1,160 ÷ 5 PSH = 232W of panels

Round up to the nearest standard array: 2 × 175W = 350W gives you comfortable headroom, or 1 × 200W + 1 × 200W = 400W.

Common scenarios

SetupDaily WhRecommended solar
Weekend camper, no fridge200–400Wh100–200W
Weekend van with 12V fridge600–900Wh200–300W
Part-time full-timer, moderate loads900–1,400Wh300–400W
Full-time with CPAP + big fridge1,400–2,000Wh400–600W
Full-time with induction cooking2,000Wh+600W+ (and large battery bank)

Sizing for shade and cloudy days

A shaded panel produces dramatically less power — even 20% shade on one cell can reduce a whole panel's output significantly. If your route takes you through heavily treed areas or overcast regions (Pacific Northwest, Northeast in winter), add 30–50% to your calculated solar need or plan on supplementing with DC-DC charging.

Solar alone won't keep up with induction cooking

An induction cooktop draws 1,200–1,800W — more than even a 600W solar system can produce at peak. If you cook on induction, plan to draw primarily from your battery for that load and recharge via solar and the alternator between meals.

Battery bank sizing

Your solar needs to be matched to a battery big enough to store a day's production and cover a cloudy day or two. A rough pairing guide:

Solar arrayRecommended battery bank (LiFePO4)
100–200W100Ah
200–400W200Ah
400–600W200–300Ah
600W+300Ah+

For full battery sizing detail, see what size house battery for a van or RV? and 100Ah vs 200Ah vs 300Ah.

How many panels fit on your roof?

Before finalizing wattage, check your roof dimensions. A standard 175W rigid panel is roughly 58" × 26.5". A Sprinter 170 has roughly 90" × 70" of usable flat roof — enough for 3–4 standard panels. A shorter Transit or Promaster may fit 2–3 panels depending on skylights, fans, and antennas.

VP

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