Calculate battery capacity from daily watt-hours, required days without charging, system voltage and a deliberate usable-energy allowance.
"How many amp-hours do I need?" is the most common van electrical question. The answer is always: it depends on your loads. Here's the formula.
The calculation
Step 1: Daily watt-hours
List your loads, their wattage, and daily hours of use:
| Load | Watts | Hours/day | Wh/day |
|---|---|---|---|
| 12V fridge | 50W avg | 24h (duty cycle) | 60Wh |
| Laptop | 65W | 4h | 260Wh |
| Phone charging | 15W | 2h | 30Wh |
| Fan (MaxxAir) | 25W avg | 6h | 150Wh |
| LED lighting | 20W | 3h | 60Wh |
| Daily total | 560Wh |
Add 15% buffer for hidden draws: 560Wh × 1.15 = 644Wh/day
Step 2: Convert to amp-hours
Wh ÷ voltage = Ah drawn per day 644Wh ÷ 12V = 53.7Ah/day
Step 3: Size for autonomy
How many days without charging do you want?
- Weekend: 2 days → 107Ah drawn
- Full-time: 3 days → 161Ah drawn
Step 4: Account for DoD
LiFePO4 at 80% DoD: divide by 0.8
- Weekend: 107Ah ÷ 0.8 = 134Ah minimum → choose 200Ah
- Full-time: 161Ah ÷ 0.8 = 201Ah minimum → choose 200–300Ah
Quick reference by use case
| Use case | Loads | Recommended battery |
|---|---|---|
| Weekend, no cooking | Fridge, phone, lighting | 100Ah LiFePO4 |
| Weekend + induction cooking | Above + cooktop | 200Ah LiFePO4 |
| Full-time, no cooking | Fridge, laptop, fan, lights | 200Ah LiFePO4 |
| Full-time + induction cooking | All above + cooktop | 300Ah LiFePO4 |
| Full-time + remote work (desktop) | All above + high laptop/screen use | 400Ah LiFePO4 |
Why solar matters for sizing
If you have 300W of solar producing 900Wh/day on average, and your daily load is 600Wh, your battery only needs to bridge overnight (8 hours) when solar isn't producing. That's a smaller battery requirement than if you were purely off-grid with no solar.
In practice: solar allows you to run a system with less battery than the pure autonomy calculation suggests — but you still need enough battery to get through a night and handle cloudy days.
The amp-hours vs watt-hours confusion
- Amp-hours (Ah): Current × time. A 100Ah battery delivers 100A for 1 hour, or 10A for 10 hours, etc.
- Watt-hours (Wh): Power × time. A 100Ah, 12V battery stores 1,200Wh.
When sizing, work in watt-hours (because appliances are rated in watts) and convert to amp-hours at the end. Mixing the two units without converting is a common mistake.
Worked planning check
For 800Wh per day, two days and an 80% allowance at nominal 12.8V, capacity is 800 × 2 ÷ 0.8 ÷ 12.8 = 156.25Ah. Add inverter losses if they are not already in the load total, then check current capability and the recharge plan separately.
The figures or dimensions in this example are explicit planning assumptions, not a product test or an installation specification. Replace them with your equipment data and actual measurements.
Planning questions
How much energy is in a 100Ah lithium battery?
At nominal 12.8V, the arithmetic is 1,280Wh. Delivered energy is lower after your reserve, losses and operating limitations; it is not a measured capacity result.
Can I mix battery brands or capacities?
Only with explicit manufacturer approval for the complete arrangement. Chemistry, voltage, age, current sharing and BMS behaviour can make a seemingly simple combination unsuitable.
Can lithium batteries charge in freezing weather?
Follow the exact battery’s permitted temperature range and heating conditions. Do not bypass a protective cutoff or infer charge permission from air temperature alone.
Related
- Battery guide
- 100Ah vs 200Ah vs 300Ah for van/RV
- How many watts does a van use per day?
- What size house battery do I need?
Use the free electrical planner to organise your daily loads and charging assumptions.
Continue planning
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Jack Kennedy is a self-builder who has built two vans. He created Roam Wired to simplify conversion planning and share free tools, supported by affiliate links.
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