Can You Run an Induction Hob Off a Campervan Inverter?
An induction hob is one of the most common upgrade requests in campervan electrical design — and one of the most frequently misunderstood. Yes, you can run an induction hob off a campervan inverter and battery. But the numbers involved are significant, and whether it is practical depends entirely on the size of your system.
This guide breaks down exactly what power you need, what it costs in battery drain, and what system you need to make it work. For help sizing your overall system, use our free calculator or see our inverter sizing guide.
Can your system run an induction hob?
Enter your battery and inverter specs into our calculator to see exactly how long you can cook and what it costs per session.
How Much Power Does an Induction Hob Use?
This varies significantly by hob type and power setting:
| Hob Type | Typical Power Range | Practical Cooking Power |
|---|---|---|
| Single portable (e.g. Duxtop, Caso) | 100W-2000W | 800-1200W |
| Double portable | 1400W-3500W | 1400-2000W |
| Built-in single zone | 1400W-2200W | 1000-1600W |
| Built-in double zone | 2000W-7200W | 1500-2500W |
The "typical power" rating is the maximum. The "practical cooking power" is what you actually use for everyday cooking — boiling water, frying, simmering. Most single-ring cooking happens at 800-1200W.
What Inverter Do You Need?
Your inverter must exceed the hob's maximum power rating, not just its typical usage. A hob rated at 2000W needs a 2500W or 3000W pure sine wave inverter to handle the peak load safely.
Critical: pure sine wave only. Modified sine wave inverters cause induction hobs to malfunction — they either refuse to start, error out, or overheat. Do not attempt to run an induction hob on a modified sine wave inverter.
See our pure sine vs modified sine guide for the full explanation.
Battery Drain Calculations
Here is the honest maths for running an induction hob at 1000W (typical boiling/frying power):
DC current draw at 1000W: 1000W / (12V × 0.88 efficiency) = 95A from the battery
Boiling 1 litre of water from cold:
- Takes approximately 4-5 minutes at 1000W
- Energy used: 1000W × 5 min = 83 Wh
- Battery drain on a 200Ah LiFePO4: 4% of capacity
Cooking a full meal (20 minutes at varied power):
- Estimated average power: 800W
- Energy used: 800W × 20 min = 267 Wh
- Battery drain on a 200Ah LiFePO4: 14% of capacity
This means cooking one substantial meal uses approximately one-seventh of a full 200Ah lithium battery. For context, your fridge uses roughly 540Wh per day. Cooking three meals per day could add 600-800Wh to your daily consumption.
Check your battery's continuous discharge rating
Running 95A+ from a battery requires it to support high continuous discharge. Most quality LiFePO4 batteries (Fogstar Drift, Victron Smart) support 1C or 0.5C continuous discharge, meaning a 200Ah battery can deliver 100-200A continuously. Check your battery's spec sheet before cooking. See our best lithium battery guide for discharge ratings by model.
What System Do You Actually Need?
Minimum Viable System for Occasional Induction Cooking
- Battery: 200Ah LiFePO4 (provides ~19kWh per charge at 0.1C, with room for cooking)
- Inverter: 2500W pure sine wave
- DC cable: 50mm² from battery to inverter (under 1 metre)
- Fuse: 250A ANL
This works for occasional cooking — one or two meals per day — if you drive and/or have adequate solar to replenish daily consumption.
Recommended System for Regular Cooking
- Battery: 300-400Ah LiFePO4 (provides meaningful headroom for cooking + other loads)
- Solar: 400-600W (cannot fully offset cooking loads but reduces the drain)
- DC-DC charger: 30-50A (alternator charging supplements solar)
- Inverter: 3000W pure sine wave
- DC cable: 70mm² from battery to inverter
At this system size, cooking 2-3 meals per day is genuinely sustainable if you drive regularly. Full-time van lifers who cook seriously on induction generally have 400Ah+ of lithium with 600W+ of solar.
Best Induction Hobs for Campervans
For Occasional Use: Single-Ring Portable
Duxtop 8100MC (1800W max, from ~£35) or Caso 3400 (2000W max, ~£45): Compact, light, easy to store. Set to 800-1000W for cooking and power draw is manageable. The most practical choice for most van lifers who cook occasionally.
For Regular Cooking: Slightly Larger Single Ring
Caso Touch 2000 (2000W, ~£60): Better temperature control, more responsive than budget options. Still single ring, manageable power draw.
For Serious Cooking: Double Ring
A 3500W double-ring hob lets you cook two things simultaneously but demands a serious electrical system. Only practical with 400Ah+ battery and a 3000W+ inverter. Most van lifers find a single ring sufficient.
Induction vs Gas for Campervans
The honest comparison:
| Induction + Inverter | Gas Hob | |
|---|---|---|
| Running cost | Battery/solar (effectively free off-grid) | LPG refills (UK: £3-6 per kg) |
| Heat output | Fast, precise | Fast, very controllable |
| System cost | +£500-1000 for adequate inverter/battery | £50-200 for hob + regulator |
| Safety | No gas, no CO risk | Gas leak risk, CO risk in enclosed space |
| Convenience | Cook anywhere, no gas dependency | Need LPG cylinder space and access |
| Winter | Works reliably | Propane needs special attention below -5°C |
Gas is simpler and cheaper to set up. Induction is safer in an enclosed van and eliminates the hassle of managing gas. Most serious full-time van lifers eventually move away from gas.
Practical Tips for Induction Cooking Off-Grid
Use a lower power setting. Most cooking does not need maximum power. Boiling water at 800W instead of 2000W takes a couple of extra minutes but halves the battery drain.
Keep an eye on battery state. Cooking on a battery below 30% state of charge puts significant stress on the cells. Monitor with a battery monitor and avoid cooking when your battery is low.
Pre-heat with a kettle. A 12V kettle (around 100W, slow) or using boiled water from a gas camping kettle to start a pasta dish reduces induction cooking time significantly.
Use a thermal cooker. Bring food to boil on the induction hob, then transfer to a thermal cooker (insulated pot) that continues cooking without electricity. Dramatically reduces energy consumption for stews, rice, and slow-cooked meals.
Drive after cooking. If you have a 30-50A DC-DC charger, a 30-minute drive after cooking dinner replenishes 400-600Wh — roughly offsetting a full meal's energy use.
FAQ
Will any induction hob work with an inverter?
Most single-ring portable induction hobs work fine with a pure sine wave inverter. Some hobs are more sensitive to power quality — Duxtop and Caso are generally reliable. Avoid cheap unbranded hobs, which are more likely to fault on inverter power.
Can I run an induction hob on a 1000W inverter?
Not safely. A 1000W-rated hob will attempt to draw up to 1000W, which would run a 1000W inverter at 100% capacity — and the DC-side draw would be around 100A, exceeding the inverter's rating when efficiency losses are factored in. Use a 2500W or larger inverter.
Does an induction hob work without an inverter?
Standard induction hobs require 230V AC supply. You cannot run them directly from 12V DC without an inverter. There are dedicated 12V induction hobs available (around £80-120) that claim to work at 12V but these are generally low-powered (200-400W max) and slow compared to a proper 230V hob.
How much solar do I need to run an induction hob?
A 400W solar system in UK summer produces around 1,400Wh per day. If cooking uses 300-500Wh of that, solar can realistically offset cooking loads in summer. In winter, solar production drops to 200-400Wh per day and will not cover cooking — you are relying on driving and battery reserves.