What Battery Size for an Induction Hob in a Campervan?

· 10 min readBatteries
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Running an induction hob from a campervan leisure battery is one of the most power-hungry things you can do in a van. It is also one of the most asked-about topics in the UK van conversion community. The appeal is obvious — clean, fast, safe cooking without gas bottles, regulators, or ventilation concerns. But the electrical demands are serious, and undersizing your battery or inverter will leave you frustrated.

This guide works through the real numbers: how much power induction hobs actually draw, how quickly they drain your battery, what minimum battery size you need, and what inverter is required. It sits within our campervan battery guide, and if you want a quick answer tailored to your specific setup, our calculator factors in cooking loads alongside everything else. For a broader look at induction hob electrical requirements, see our induction hob power guide.

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How Much Power Does an Induction Hob Draw?

Induction hobs for campervan use typically range from 1,000W to 2,000W. The exact draw depends on the model and the power setting you use.

Common Campervan Induction Hobs

HobMax PowerTypical Cooking PowerUK Price
Single ring portable (e.g., Tefal Everyday)2,100W1,000-1,500W£30-£50
Single ring portable (low wattage models)1,000W600-800W£25-£40
Built-in single ring (e.g., Dometic)1,800W1,000-1,400W£150-£300
Built-in double ring3,000W+1,500-2,000W (one ring)£200-£400

The critical number is not the maximum rated power — it is the power you actually cook at. You rarely cook at full power. Boiling water starts at maximum but most cooking (frying, simmering, warming) happens at 600-1,200W.

Low-wattage hobs exist for a reason

Some manufacturers make induction hobs specifically rated at 1,000W maximum. These are ideal for campervan use because they work with smaller inverters, draw less current, and still cook effectively. A 1,000W hob boils a litre of water in about 4-5 minutes and handles everyday cooking comfortably. You sacrifice speed, not capability.

The Battery Drain Maths

Let us work through the actual numbers for a 12V system.

Formula

Battery drain (Ah) = Hob power (W) x Cooking time (hours) / (System voltage x Inverter efficiency)

Inverter efficiency is typically 85-90%. We will use 87% as a realistic figure.

Example: Cooking a Full Meal

A typical evening meal — frying onions and mince, boiling pasta, heating a sauce — might use the hob for 30 minutes at an average of 1,200W.

Battery drain = 1,200W x 0.5h / (12V x 0.87) = 57.5Ah

That is nearly 58Ah for one meal. On a 200Ah LiFePO4 battery (160Ah usable at 80% depth of discharge), that single meal consumes over a third of your usable capacity.

Daily Cooking Scenarios

ScenarioAverage PowerTimeBattery Drain (Ah)Battery Drain (Wh)
Boil kettle (1L)1,800W4 mins6.9Ah83Wh
Fry-up breakfast1,200W15 mins17.2Ah207Wh
Boil pasta + sauce1,400W20 mins26.8Ah322Wh
Full evening meal1,200W30 mins34.5Ah414Wh
Quick reheat/soup800W10 mins7.7Ah92Wh
Full day (3 meals)Varies~60 mins60-80Ah720-960Wh

The Current Draw Problem

Power draw translates to very high DC current at 12V. A 2,000W hob through an inverter draws:

DC current = 2,000W / (12V x 0.87) = 191A

That is nearly 200 amps from your battery. This has serious implications for your wiring, fusing, and battery rating.

Check your battery's continuous discharge rating

A 100Ah LiFePO4 battery is typically rated for 100A continuous discharge (1C rate). Running a 2,000W hob would demand nearly 200A — double the rating. Even a 1,500W hob draws around 144A. You need a battery rated for the current you intend to draw, not just the capacity. Most 200Ah LiFePO4 batteries are rated for 200A continuous, which handles a 2,000W hob comfortably.

Minimum Battery Size for Induction Cooking

The minimum depends on two things: energy capacity (Ah) and discharge current rating (A).

By Energy Capacity

Assuming you want induction cooking plus normal van appliances (fridge, lights, phone charging — approximately 50-60Ah per day baseline), here are the minimums:

Cooking PatternCooking DrainBaseline DrainTotal DailyMin LiFePO4 (1.5 day autonomy)
Occasional (one meal/day)35Ah55Ah90Ah170Ah
Regular (two meals/day)55Ah55Ah110Ah206Ah
Heavy (three meals/day)80Ah55Ah135Ah253Ah

Minimum practical recommendation: 200Ah LiFePO4 for occasional induction cooking with typical van loads.

Recommended: 300Ah LiFePO4 for regular induction cooking, especially if you have limited solar input or do not drive daily.

By Discharge Current

Battery SizeTypical Max Continuous CurrentMax Hob Power (at 87% efficiency)
100Ah100A~1,044W
200Ah200A~2,088W
280Ah200-280A~2,088-2,923W
300Ah200-300A~2,088-3,132W

A 100Ah battery cannot safely support a standard induction hob. Even a low-wattage 1,000W hob runs it right at its current limit with no headroom for other loads. A 200Ah battery handles up to a 2,000W hob.

For guidance on choosing the right capacity for your overall system, see our battery sizing guide.

Inverter Requirements

An induction hob runs on 230V AC, so you need an inverter. The inverter must be sized for the hob's maximum draw plus a safety margin.

Inverter Sizing for Induction

Hob Max PowerMinimum Inverter SizeRecommended Inverter Size
1,000W1,500W2,000W
1,500W2,000W2,500W
2,000W2,500W3,000W

The safety margin accounts for startup surges and the fact that running an inverter at 100% capacity continuously reduces its lifespan and efficiency. A 2,000W pure sine wave inverter costs £200-£400 in the UK from brands like Victron, Renogy, or Giandel.

Pure sine wave only

Induction hobs require a pure sine wave inverter. Modified sine wave inverters cannot reliably power induction hobs — the electronics in the hob may not function correctly, may produce error codes, or may not turn on at all. Do not attempt to save money with a modified sine wave inverter if you plan to use induction cooking.

Inverter Cable Sizing

At 150-200A DC draw, the cables between your battery, fuse, and inverter must be appropriately sized. For a 2,000W inverter within 1 metre of the battery:

  • Minimum cable size: 50mm² (approximately 1/0 AWG)
  • Recommended cable size: 70mm² for runs over 1 metre
  • Fuse: 250A ANL fuse between battery and inverter

Undersized cables will cause voltage drop, heat, and potentially fire. This is not an area to cut costs. For detailed cable sizing guidance, see our wire gauge guide.

Realistic Usage: Can You Actually Cook on Battery Power?

Yes, but with realistic expectations.

What Works Well

  • Quick meals: Stir-fries, pasta dishes, fried eggs, soup, and reheating all work brilliantly. Cooking times of 15-30 minutes per meal are manageable even on a 200Ah system.
  • Boiling water: A full kettle (1L) in 4-5 minutes uses under 7Ah — perfectly reasonable multiple times per day.
  • Supplementing gas: Many van lifers use induction for quick tasks and gas for longer cooking. This hybrid approach works well.

What Is Challenging

  • Extended cooking: Slow-cooking a stew for 2 hours at 800W uses 77Ah. That is nearly half of a 200Ah battery's usable capacity.
  • Baking: Using a small oven on an induction hob for 45-60 minutes at high power drains the battery rapidly.
  • Three full cooked meals per day: Feasible on a 300Ah+ system with good solar, but tight on 200Ah without driving or hook-up charging.

A Practical Daily Budget

On a 200Ah LiFePO4 battery with 400W solar (summer UK conditions generating roughly 100-120Ah per day via solar):

ItemDaily Drain (Ah)
Fridge45
Lights, phones, fan15
Induction cooking (one meal + kettle)40
Total100
Solar input (summer)+100-120
NetBalanced to slight surplus

In summer with good solar, one induction meal per day is sustainable on 200Ah. In winter, solar drops to 20-40Ah per day, and the maths becomes much tighter — you will need to drive or use hook-up to supplement.

Cook while driving

If your inverter is connected to the leisure battery and your DC-DC charger is running while driving, cooking during a driving stop puts the energy cost on the alternator rather than your stored battery capacity. Some van lifers make it a habit to cook lunch during or immediately after a morning drive.

Alternatives to Consider

If the battery and inverter requirements for induction feel excessive for your build, consider these alternatives:

  • Gas hob: Zero electrical drain for cooking. A small gas bottle lasts weeks. The trade-off is carrying gas, ventilation requirements, and condensation from combustion.
  • Diesel cooktop: Products like the Wallas or Webasto diesel cooker run from the vehicle's fuel tank. Higher cost but no gas bottles and minimal electrical draw.
  • 12V slow cooker: Low-power 12V cooking appliances draw 10-15A directly from the battery without an inverter. Good for stews and soups but very slow.
  • Hybrid approach: Gas hob for daily cooking, induction for occasional use when on hook-up or with a full battery.

FAQ

Can I run an induction hob on a 100Ah battery?

It is technically possible with a low-wattage (1,000W) hob and very short cooking times, but it is not practical. The current draw pushes the battery to its rated limit, and even a 15-minute cooking session uses a significant percentage of usable capacity. A 200Ah battery is the realistic minimum.

What size inverter do I need for an induction hob?

For a 1,000W hob, a 1,500W pure sine wave inverter is the minimum (2,000W recommended). For a 2,000W hob, you need at least a 2,500W inverter (3,000W recommended). Always choose pure sine wave — modified sine wave will not work reliably with induction hobs.

How long can I cook on a 200Ah battery?

On a fully charged 200Ah LiFePO4 battery with no other loads, cooking at 1,200W average draws approximately 115Ah per hour. You could cook for roughly 80-85 minutes before reaching 20% state of charge. With other loads running (fridge, lights), that drops to around 60-70 minutes of available cooking time.

Is induction cooking in a campervan worth the electrical cost?

For many van lifers, yes. The convenience, safety (no open flame), and cleanliness of induction cooking justify the extra battery and inverter investment. But it requires honest assessment of your power system. If you have a 100Ah battery and 100W of solar, induction cooking is not realistic. If you have 200-300Ah and 300-400W of solar, it is entirely viable.

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